"Procida, in my opinion more beautiful than the sisters Ischia and Capri, a former fishing village where time seems to have stopped. Come and discover with me the beauties of this place still unknown to many tourists."
This volcanic island in the Gulf of Naples seems almost out of time, in the idyllic setting of fishing boats and small villages perched on hills.
Here a typically Mediterranean beauty and from literature to film it was starred in many works. In the late 1950s, Elsa Morante dedicated the book L'Isola di Arturo to this island.
Procida is the queen of slow tourism and should be discovered calmly, with no rush. It offers a perfect mix of natural beauty, glimpses of a long history and unmissable beaches. You can get around easily on foot, but buses or taxis are also available.
The territory of Procida is divided into nine contrade, called grancìe. These are Terra Murata (the oldest), Corricella (the fishing village), Sent'cò (with the commercial port of Marina Grande), Semmarezio, San Leonardo, Madonna della Libera (or Santissima Annunziata), Sant'Antuono, Sant'Antonio and Chiaiolella (a marina). At 16 kilometres in length, every corner is impressive, starting with the many small streets that open onto beaches hidden in bays.
The historic core is the hamlet of Terra Murata , which is in some ways its heart, but equally interesting is the small island of Vivara, connected to Procida by a bridge. Its peculiarity is that it is a protected natural island, which winks at a more informal tourism.
Procida can also be visited in one day, the most important thing is to plan your movements or, alternatively, to let yourself go by instinct or the tips of the locals.
To get there, take the ferry from the port of Naples or Pozzuoli, a one-hour boat ride. You will get to Marina Grande, the harbour and beating heart of the centre, divided between craft shops, bars, small boutiques and rental points for mopeds, bicycles, minicars and various boats.
From here you can move towards the historic centre, climbing up Via Principe Umberto to Piazza dei Martiri, passing by the Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie and stopping at the Belvedere dei Cannoni to observe Marina Corricella in all its wonder.
Terra Murata is the ancient historical centre. Here you can visit Palazzo D'Avalos, which used to be a palace and prison, and get lost among courtyards, stairways and small squares until you reach the 11th-century Abbey of San Michele Arcangelo. In addition, it boasts a museum complex on the three floors below.
The fishermen village, Corricella, is a place you can walk to. The small houses of different colours are reflected in the transparent waters of the marina and it is one of the most beautiful and characteristic views of the island.
Enjoy a day exploring the tranquil island of Procida
Stop for lunch at a traditional local restaurant
Travel round-trip by ferry from Naples
Spend a day exploring the quiet, mysterious island of Procida on your own. Travel by ferry from Naples and discover all the island has to offer. Explore lemon groves and cobbled alleys, soaking up the relaxing atmosphere.
Stop for lunch at a typical local restaurant and watch the world go by. Enjoy 3 delicious courses accompanied by a glass of wine.
Visit Terra Murata, the oldest village on the island, and see its castle and prison. Stop at the marina of Corricella picturesque village of fishmen and wander through the port of Marina Grande in Sent'cò. Admire best view of Coricella village from Belvedere dei Cannoni and Belvedere di Elsa Morante.
We are in the Campania region in Italy, at the end of the nineteenth century. Francesca, whose parents and grandparents were pasta makers and who herself owns a pasta shop, marries Prince Giordano Montorsi for love.
They have nine children altogether and, at a certain point, Francesca is afraid that her little Nanà is going to die, and makes a vow: if her daughter lives, she will adopt an orphan. This is how Nunziatina, a pretty girl of eight, enters their lives. Strangely enough, she is the child who is most like Francesca, especially in the way she devotes herself unceasingly to work. Nunziatina is the only one who helps Francesca in the pasta shop, the only one to whom she reveals all the secrets of her craft. Nunziata is already in her teens when Federico, the eldest of the Montorsi children, returns from his studies in London. It is love at first sight, but how are they going to get around being related, if only indirectly?
Meanwhile, Francesca and Giordano’s marriage is on the rocks. To make things worse, the prince has neglected their business affairs and the family is in serious financial difficulties that may well lead to their ruin.Francesca decides that the only solution is for Federico to marry the daughter of a wealthy shipowner.
Francesca tries to ward off bankruptcy by arranging a marriage between eldest son Federico (Raoul Bova) and a shipping magnate’s daughter. This news is gloomily received by both Federico and now-grown Nunziata (Claudia Gerini), who’ve kept a mutual passion hidden. Their secret out at last — at least to a sternly disapproving mama — Nunziata reluctantly consents to her own arranged wedlock, but demands as dowry the means to start a competing pasta company.
Just 1-minute walk from Positano's main street, Pensione Casa Guadagno is 5 minutes' walk from Fornillo Beach. Each one of its rooms offers a balcony with a view of the Mediterranean Sea.
Rooms come with decorative tiled floors and air conditioning. Each one has a fridge and a private bathroom.
An Italian breakfast of coffee and croissants is served in the dining hall each morning. Here you will also have free Wi-Fi. Gluten-free produce for breakfast can be provided on request.
Casa Guadagno is just a few steps from some of Positano's most popular restaurants. It is 5 minutes' walk from the bus stop for Sorrento, 8.7 mi away.
Hotel Royal Positano is surrounded by Positanos rocky cliffs, which drop down into clear blue sea. Relax in lush gardens on extensive sun terraces.
Free and serviced beaches are easily reachable by public transport from Royal Positano Hotel. Just take the bus which leaves 16 feet from the hotel entrance.
On Sunday December 5, CNN broadcast a stunning Rome episode of Parts Unknown in which Anthony Bourdain and Asia Argento go to a trattoria, which they do not name. It’s Settimio. Sorry for the spoiler but I don’t believe in depriving Mario and Teresa of business through exclusion Watch the episode it is brilliant.
I vividly remember my first visit to Settimio al Pellegrino. It was in 2007 and my friend Jess and I had gotten a hot tip from a regular that a short walk from Campo de’ Fiori sat an uber-authentic trattoria serving simply dressed fresh pastas, meaty mains, and seasonal vegetables. We made a booking but when we showed up for dinner the door was locked. We were already off to a rough start. One of us noticed a button next to the door and after a sustained buzz, chef and owner Teresa opened the door a crack and said something to the effect of “chi siete”, who are you?
If that doesn’t sound like a warm greeting, it wasn’t. But at Settimio, warmth isn’t doled out frivolously. Warmth is earned. If you turn up without a reservation, there’s a real chance you will be sent away, whether they are booked up or not. It’s the kind of place where the possibility of a regular rolling in late leads Teresa and her husband Mario to set aside tables for such an occurrence. And even calling to reserve well in advance doesn’t guarantee a table. On that note, if you don’t speak Italian, have your hotel ring for you. And if all this sounds too fussy, don’t read on. Settimio isn’t for you.
ANTHONY BOURDAIN
PARTS UNKOWN - ROME
PARTS UNKNOWN - ROME
With ABEL FERRARA & ASIA ARGENTO
I have to be honest: arbitrary seating policies give me agita. I grew up in restaurants and treasure hospitality. I want to connect with the people who make and serve my food, not be rejected or dismissed. Yet I was determined to win over Teresa and Mario. That night, Jess and I ordered every course, including my current go-to, polpette, scorched yet delicious meat patties. We cleaned our plates, admired the eclectic decor (framed posters and paintings gifted by Settimio’s clients, which include plenty of artists and film makers) and watched as Mario worked the room, taking orders and doting on regulars. Teresa emerged from the kitchen occasionally to clear plates and pinch cheeks. Man, did it feel bad being an outsider at Settimio that night.
Jess and I apparently didn’t make much of an impression because I went back on my own a few days later for lunch and was given the same suspicious treatment. After a few more visits, however, I was totally in, cheek caresses and all. This is good news if you live in Rome or visit often. You, too, can become a doted-on regular. Otherwise, visit knowing you won’t be pampered by the service but you’ll definitely walk away having witnessed a Roman relic.
SETTIMIO PELLIGRINO
ROMA
That is to say, a lot of what’s appealing about Settimio is the attitude and atmosphere. Some regulars have been going since the place opened in the 1930s, others a decidedly shorter length, but all are given special attention. In that way, the place is not unique. The attraction to countless other local joints is the experience and the relationship with the owners, even more so than the food.
I don’t think anyone with Roman dining experience would say the food is flawless. Like many places in town, it makes sense to stick to certain things like those meatballs or the onion-rich vitello alla genovese. At Settimio, comfort food reigns: fettucine with meat sauce, gnocchi with tomato sauce (Thursdays only), trippa alla romana, and involtini (meat rolls). The handmade pastas pass muster, but you won’t write home about them. The pillowy, super sweet, candied chestnut-studded Montblanc, which they do not make in house, is another story. I dream about it sometimes. Usually right before I go to the dentist. I am also very into the mela cotta (baked apple). I’m a sucker for overcooked fruit.
Second only to the struggle of winning the owners’ affection is the wines, which range from undrinkable to painfully undrinkable. While it’s charming that regulars leave unfinished bottles in the fridge for their next visit, I can honestly say that the only wine worse than the wine at Settimio is day-old wine at Settimio. It’s not what you’ve come for anyway.
